Ancient Ethiopia: The Empire of Aksum and the Rock-cut Churches of Lalibela

Itinerary

Note about the itinerary: This itinerary is subject to change depending on international and domestic flight schedules, as days of operation are sometimes amended by the airline without notice. We will endeavour to depart and return on the dates advertised but may have to substitute a different, non-direct airline to achieve this. The order of sightseeing may need to be reversed or amended.

Day 1

Check in at London Heathrow for Ethiopian Airlines flight overnight to Addis Ababa.

Day 2

Arrive Addis Ababa and transfer to the Hilton Hotel. Rest until lunch time, after which we will begin to explore the city, including a drive north up to Mount Entoto’ where in 1881 Emperor Menelik II made his permanent camp. From the top, there is a panoramic view of the capital and surrounding countryside. Two important structures remain within the old imperial compound on Entoto, the churches of Mariam and the Archangel Raguel. Dinner and overnight at the Intercontinental Hotel or similar.

Day 3

Full day in Addis. Tonight the bonfire and processions for Ethiopia’s colourful Meskel festival will take place, but today the city is making itself ready. While this happens, we visit the National Archaeological Museum, where visitors can see exhibits ranging from the 3.5 million-year-old bones of Lucy, to artefacts from the Aksumite and Gondarene periods through to the period of the monarchs Tewodros and Menelik II. In the early evening, we shall make our way towards the area of the bonfire, and watch the processions of brightly-garbed priests and nuns singing and dancing to the beat of drums. Dinner and overnight at the Intercontinental Hotel.

Day 4

Transfer to the airport for a flight to Aksum. On arrival we transfer to the Remhai Hotel. We start our tour after an early lunch with a visit to the newly constructed museum. The 4th century Persian historian Mani proclaimed Aksum to be one of the four great powers of the ancient world, alongside Persia, China and Rome. Today the visitor can see stelae, the tombs and castles of kings, Aksum Museum and Mariamtsion Church, built on the site of Ethiopia’s first church. A chapel within the church compound is believed by Ethiopian Orthodox Christians to house the Ark of the Covenant, or the original tablets of Moses on which are inscribed the 10 Commandments. We ascend the hill to the east to see the castle and tomb of King Kalab, passing on the way Mai Shum (the bath of the ‘Queen of Sheba’), and also the stone on which is carved exploits of the Aksumite kings in three languages, Ge'ez, Himyar (from Yemen) and Greek. We shall also visit the tomb of King Basen, whom Orthodox Ethiopians believe was one of the three Magi who brought presents to the infant Jesus. Dinner and overnight at the Ramhai Hotel.

Day 5

Today we shall visit any Aksumite sites we may have missed yesterday, then set off on the 55 km trip to Yeha, Ethiopia’s first city – settlement in the area dates back more than 2800 years. Outside Aksum on the road east we come to the top of a hill and are confronted with the dramatic mountain backdrop of the “teeth of Adua” – the striking scenery around the area where in 1896 King Menelik II defeated the invading Italian forces. At Yeha there are the remains of a temple dedicated to Ilmuqeh, the moon god, and next to the temple is the church of Abune Aftse, one of the “9 Saints” who did much to spread Christianity in Ethiopia. The temple at Yeha is the oldest building in sub-Saharan Africa. Return to Aksum for dinner and overnight at the Ramhai Hotel.

Day 6

We leave Aksum for the scenic drive to Ethiopia’s majestic Simien Mountains. A World Heritage Site, the Simien Mountains National Park presents perhaps the most dramatic scenery in Africa – great volcanic plugs, formed some 40 million years ago and eroded into fantastic pinnacles and flat topped mountains towering over precipitous gorges, river valleys and plains stretching all the way to Eritrea. Wildlife includes the endemic Gelada or bleeding heart baboon, the Simien Wolf and rock hyrax, and endemic birds such as the Thick billed Raven, Black headed Siskin, White Collared Pigeon, Wattled Ibis, White billed Starling, Spot breasted Plover and White backed Black Tit. Cruising Lammergeyers are often seen. The park is also famous for its Afro-Alpine flora, meadows and grasslands punctuated by Giant Lobelia and flowering Red Hot PokersDinner and overnight at Simien Lodge - at 3600 metres, the highest hotel in Africa.

Day 7

Drive to Gondar, the imperial capital from the 17th to mid 19th centuries. The Royal Enclosure provides visitors with a idea of what it must have been like in its hey day. Within the compound are the castles of various Gondarene emperors along with a banqueting hall, stables and churches. We shall also visit the nearby bath of King Fasilides, and the Debre Berhan Selassie whose walls and ceiling are completely covered with murals - the angels’ faces on the ceiling have become a common motif in Ethiopian design. We end our tour of Gondar at the ruined palace of Queen Mentowab, and the church of Qusquam Mariam, situated on a hill just outside town. Dinner and overnight at the Goha Hotel.

Day 8

Drive to Bahir Dar, an attractive town, well laid out with tree lined avenues and with the blue of Lake Tana in the background. Tana is Ethiopia’s largest lake and is dotted with islands, on many of which are found churches and monasteries. Travel by boat to the Zeghie Peninsula, which is known for its 14th century round, grass roofed churches and their magnificent wall murals. We visit two churches, Betra Mariam and Ura Kidane Mehret, walking through dense forest with lots of bird life, before returning by boat to our hotel. Dinner and overnight at the Abbay Minch Lodge.

Day 9

Early morning excursion to the Blue Nile Falls, some 30 km from the town. A 20 minute walk brings us to the falls themselves, which are at their most spectacular during and after the rainy season (from about June to January) however their flow depends on the requirements of a hydro-electric station nearby which also uses this water. The Blue Nile contributes 85% of the main Nile flow, starting its long journey to the Mediterranean. We return to Bahir Dar and visit the former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie at Bizeit, with great views of the town and the place where the Blue Nile flows out of the lake, and then the markets. Dinner and overnight at the Abbay Minch Lodge.

Day 10

Transfer to the airport for the flight to Lalibela. At the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th centuries King Lalibela of the Zaghwe dynasty built a series of rock hewn churches – the New Jerusalem as he called it – now rightly acknowledged to be one of the wonders of the world. There are 11 churches in the town named after him, with others in the surrounding countryside. All are still in use today. After checking into the Jerusalem Guest House we will start our tour of the first group of churches, returning to the hotel for lunch, and continuing the tour in the afternoon. Dinner and overnight at the Jerusalem Guest House.

Day 11

After breakfast we set off on mule or on foot to the church of Ashetun Mariam, about 4 hours’ round trip. We pass small villages on the way up and there are wonderful views of the surrounding countryside from the top of the mountain where the church is located. Those who do not feel up to a hike or mule ride can go a shorter distance by car to the cave church of Neakuto Leab. After lunch we set off by car to the cave church of Yemrehane Christos, built by the king of the same name before the reign of King Lalibela. The church is constructed inside a cave, in Aksumite style, similar to the 7th century monastery at Debre Damo in Tigray, with alternating levels of wood and stone. A 40 km trip from Lalibela followed by a 10 minute walk brings you to this beautiful church, the finest example of its kind in Ethiopia. Dinner and overnight at the Jerusalem Guest House.

Day 12

Transfer to the airport for the return flight to Addis Ababa. We can spend the rest of the day souvenir shopping, visiting the Mercato, Africa’s biggest market, where you can buy everything from livestock to computers, and can also visit the Ethiopian Ethnographic Museum, housed in the former Genete Palace of Emperor Haile Selassie. We will have a farewell dinner at the Crown Hotel, and see dancing from Ethiopia’s different regions. Dinner and overnight at the Intercontinental Hotel or similar.

Day 13

Transfer to Addis Ababa airport for flight to London

Tour Details

DATE:

25 September - 07 October 2012

PRICE:

£3,395 from London

INCLUDES:

Airfare from London, twin or double bedded rooms with private bathroom, full board, all excursions with local guides, all entrance fees, UK departure tax, transfers, expert leader.

Single supplement £460.

NOT INCLUDED:

Regional connecting flights if not departing from London, other airline taxes (UK passenger service charge, security tax, insurance, foreign departure tax, fuel surcharges), drinks, tips to drivers and local guides.

*May be joined without flights. Ask us for the land-only price.

ACCOMMODATION:

3-4 star. This tour uses the best available accommodation in each location - we have chosen properties based on location and all will be comfortable - eg ensuite rooms throughout, however this tour is more about the sightseeing and general experience than the hotel accommodation.

FITNESS LEVEL:

Moderate - We have graded the fitness level required for participation in this tour as Moderate. We shall be at altitude for the majority of this tour (Addis Ababa is at 2,500 metres and we shall ascend to approximately 3600 metres at the highest point, whilst staying in the Simien Mountains) so some people may experience altitude sickness as this can start at 2,500. This is quite a full itinerary, with some long days and a reasonable amount of travelling by road requiring multiple hotel stays. Whilst sightseeing we may be on the go for several hours at one time, in some places without the guarantee of somewhere to stop and rest. It is important that everyone is able to keep up with the group as we need to keep together on walks. For these reasons we feel this tour is unsuitable for the frail, for those with a history of heart disease, lung disease or sickle cell disease (due to the altitude) or for anyone who routinely uses a walking frame or wheelchair. If unsure, please check with us.

Trip Lecturer

We are sorry to say that Professor Phillipson is not able to accompany this tour in 2012. We are actively looking for a suitable replacement and will update this page as soon as we can confirm the new lecturer.

Fast facts

• Sovereignty: Ethiopia is a Republic.
• Language:Amharic and other native languages.
• Currency: Birr (ETB)
• Timezone: Ethiopia is GMT +3 hours so in British summertime will be 2 hours ahead of the UK.

• Immunisations: NHS Fit for Travel recommends that all travellers to Ethiopia should confirm primary courses and boosters are up to date as recommended for life in Britain - including vaccines given to special groups because of risk exposure or complications (e.g. hepatitis B for health care workers, influenza and pneumococcal vaccines for the elderly). Parts of Ethiopia under 2000m altitude are Malarial however we do not believe that this tour will descend to this level, so prophylaxis probably need not be taken, but advice changes frequently, so check the Malaria Map before travel. Courses or boosters usually advised: diphtheria; tetanus; poliomyelitis; hepatitis A; typhoid; yellow fever. Vaccines sometimes advised: tuberculosis; meningococcal meningitis; hepatitis B; rabies; cholera. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required as a condition of entry from travellers coming from areas with risk of yellow fever transmission (travellers arriving direct from the UK do not require this).

  *Note this advice is intended to be a guide only, as we are not qualified to give out medical advice. Travellers should always consult their own GP before they travel to get up-to-date information which is relevant to their own circumstances.

• Visas: Visas are required for all visitors to Ethiopia and can be obtained from Ethiopian diplomatic missions abroad. Some nationalities are eligible to obtain a visa on arrival however due to the length of time this takes to process (2 hours) we recommend that all clients obtain a visa in advance. Please check with your local consulate for the procedure.
• Flying time: 7h 30 mins, direct from London. Flights with stopovers will take longer.
• Will my phone work: Ethiopia uses the 900 MHz bandwidth so almost all UK phones will work there as long as your provider has authorised its use abroad. Norte however that coverage is growing but currently confined mainly to Addis Ababa, Bahir Dar and Gonder (no coverage at Aksum as of latest info).

Extensions in Ethiopia

For those with more time, we recommend several three to five day extensions to see wildlife, scenery, birds or culture, as desired. We can also offer a very special off the beaten track anthropological journey (8 days) to visit the Omo River region, with its diverse tribal groups, each with their own customs and cultures. Travel by 4X4 through stunning scenery to meet tribes whose contact with the modern world has come only within the last two or three decades, such as the beautifully adorned Hamer tribe with their unique cattle-leaping ritual and the Mursi with their characteristic lip plates. Visit our tailor-made North Africa pages for more information.